SIMORRA Spring/Summer 2027
SIMORRA has spent the better part of its recent evolution insisting that fabric should come before image. FOLD IN – abrazados al tejido, its SS27 collection, makes that position unusually literal. Inspired by the idea that what appears flat, straight or simple can reveal something considerably more complicated once folded, curved or examined closely, the collection treats the pliegue as an embraced methodology. The official text invokes Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and the act of looking beyond surfaces; on the runway, that translated into fabrics that wrapped, bent, gathered and adjusted themselves around the body rather than simply hanging from it.
The opening look understood the proposition immediately. In a restrained nude palette, the interest came less from silhouette than from the way the material behaved: folds interrupting otherwise clean surfaces, volume appearing through manipulation rather than padding, and the garment seeming to negotiate with the body instead of imposing itself upon it. The beige and neutral passages were generally the collection’s strongest because they allowed texture to become visible without needing colour to do the explanatory work. That restraint suited a brand whose most recent argument has consistently been that textile itself can carry narrative and identity.
There is an intriguing paradox at the centre of contemporary SIMORRA: the brand has become remarkably consistent conceptually while remaining comparatively elusive visually. Season after season, the subject changes but the methodology remains almost as the following formula—identify an idea, study its structure, translate that structure into textile and then make it wearable. Fossils became reliefs, roots became tubular constructions, fractals became perforation, language became embroidery; now identity becomes a fold. It is an intelligent system, and one that has given the house considerably more conceptual coherence than it had a decade ago.
The question, then, is whether a method can eventually become a house code—or whether a house ultimately needs a silhouette. Frankly, SIMORRA’s identity currently lives closer to the garment than across the room. In an engineered surface, an unusual construction, a perforation, a manipulated textile, a fold. This collection makes a persuasive case for that being intentional. But if the house has already learned how to make an idea visible on the surface of a garment, the more ambitious next step may be allowing that research to alter the garment itself more radically—to dictate shoulder, waist, volume and proportion until a SIMORRA silhouette becomes as recognisable from twenty metres away as its fabric is from twenty centimetres.
There are moments, however, when that quietness risks becoming too polite. Not every silhouette extracted the full potential of the concept, and some looks felt more like competent carriers for interesting fabrics than inevitable conclusions to the research behind them. The weakness was not the research itself, but the occasional distance between the intelligence of the textile and the familiarity of the garment carrying it.
The company generated €23.9 million in sales in 2024, up 19%, and its expansion has carried the brand beyond Spain through markets including Mexico and, more recently, France. Internationalisation changes the stakes of recognisability. A customer encountering SIMORRA for the first time cannot be expected to know the intellectual origins behind every garment. Material intelligence may distinguish a garment once it is in your hands; silhouette is often what gets it into them. The commercial challenge is therefore not to abandon the textile research that distinguishes the house, but to make that intelligence increasingly legible before the customer ever touches the fabric.
FOLD IN is not built around shock, nor is it trying particularly to become one. Its strengths are tactile: neutral passages that make texture legible, fabrics that reward proximity, and a design philosophy increasingly comfortable with letting material carry the weight. SIMORRA’s next evolution may therefore be less about finding another concept than allowing the concepts it already understands so well to transform the body more decisively. Up close, the language is becoming clearer.
Perhaps that is the most appropriate conclusion for a collection about folds:
SIMORRA is becoming easier to understand the closer you look.
WRITTEN BY FREDDY ESPINAL
